It's all shiny and new, our web site that is. We have done it, put some money and time into taking our already good web site and making it amazing. Big shout to Ollie on that account because he's the man who fiddled for ages to get it right, nice one mate!!!

Right down to business as previously discussed we will be chatting about finger boarding and specific one move training. This is something that people have been doing in climbing since climbing training began. Taking a hold you can't hold or a move you can't do, then replicating it in doors then sitting in the dark for months trying to stick it.

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So I'm not going to try and tell you everything there is to know about this type of training, because I'll be forever, I'm just going to give you some hints and tips and a few basic pointers.   Starting with finger board training. Dead simple your thinking just buy one and start pulling on the smallest holds there is. Well that's a really good way of injuring your fingers, elbows, shoulders and wrists (did I forget any).   The best method is to start easy, don't even do actual pull ups, just hang for a period of time on a series of holds. Depending on the board you have it will be different; a good place to start is a series of ledge, sloper, pocket and crimp. I would suggest 3 sets of each exercise at 15 seconds on 50 off with a rest 2 minutes between each  exercise, do this 2-3 times a week then increase intensity and decrease rest period. This will give a good base finger board session that you can build on, you will feel gains quickly but don't fall into the overtraining trap. For example this is my personal finger board program,

Program to be done 4 days out of 7:

Ledge: 3 sets of 30 seconds

Large pocket: 3 sets of 30 seconds

Large crimp: 3 sets of 30 seconds

Sloper: 3 sets of 30 seconds

Small crimp:   3 sets of 20 seconds

Small (2 finger) pocket: 3 sets of 5 seconds, 1 arm lock off

I do this set 2 times then stop even if I feel strong as the accumulation of training days is sufficient to create training effect. Basically no point blowing yourself out on the 2nd day.

Now one move training. This is really as it sounds you do one move, however there is a progression system that you can use that will make the training effect slightly better than if u just keep trying a nails hard move over and over again. Start easy, again simulate the moves but on better holds, so that you have a chance of doing it, also your body gets used to the movement required. The next step is to progressively decrease the size of the holds and or increase the distance of the move if applicable to the move in question.   This type of training should be done on both sides of the body so as to not create an imbalance in your training. Know here is some home work for all you budding training bunnies out there try researching neuro-symmetry in particular the effect it has on training single limbs, its good news for all you injured crankers out there.

Anyway enough's enough visit our little home of training info next month for some crack atrocities and importantly how to make jamming gloves that don't fall off!!!

Laters

Squiff